Watch shopping
A few months ago I had the idea of trying out some high-end or precious metal models. Of course the first thing I wanted was an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, but the case was too big for my wrist after having the 15500 in my hands, and now that Audemars Piguet is trying to tighten up the number of authorized shops, getting a popular steel model at AP Boutique is completely out of the realm of most people, and my favourite 15202 Jumbo is still too far away. The 15202 Jumbo is still too far away.
Then I started to consider Lange & Söhne, Breguet and other simple three-handed watches in precious metal for formal wear, but as I don’t wear formal wear or even shirts, and these kinds of watches are more restrained on the wrist, I need to dress to match them to achieve the desired effect, so after I put it on my hand it’s not at all the deep old man feel I thought it would be …… So that’s it.
Continue to play with Rolex? I’ve already got the Logbook, Diver and Chronograph, and I like the Explorer and GMT, but I’ve tried on the Explorer before and given up on it: I wasn’t very impressed with the Explorer I, although the history, workmanship and fit were perfect, but I didn’t feel the urge to take it off; I liked the Explorer II Polar, but I gave it up because it was too big. Very good series, used to own the old aluminum pepsi circle, ceramic new model is very good but very hot and hard to buy, even Dufour old gentleman have to queue a little …… At the same time and the new batman, pepsi in 2018 Baselworld together with the launch of the root beer, then the impression is quite good, slowly to now like the degree is unabated. Unlike the traditional inter-gold Rolex vibe, the chocolate colour with black ceramic bezel and rose gold made perfect sense together and satisfied my desire for a precious metal, so I contacted the sales at the familiar counter. The sales recently called to say that the polar tan II had arrived and asked if I wanted it, I of course replied that I should continue to wait for GMT,fake rolex watches then he replied that the root beer had also arrived …… So on the eve of all the shops closing due to the epidemic, I got my first ceramic GMT in my life.
Unboxing
Since Rolex launched the first GMT Master in 1954, the series is now one of the most sought-after sports Rolexes thanks to its interesting two-tone bezel and practical functions. 2018’s new 126711Chnr is a modern take on the vintage Rolex 1675 root beer, with a more restrained and understated look than the old model. The suffix Chnr here stands for Chocolat/Noir (chocolate and black – chocolate and black), the familiar Blackwater LN for Lunette/Noir (black bezel – black outer ring) and the Pepsi ring Blro for Bleu/Rouge (blue and red – red and blue) ……
The yellow and chocolate coloured bezel with a gold centre chain adds to the ‘gold flavour’ of the old model, which is not so easy for youngsters to handle.
It is hard to imagine that brown could have anything to do with a good-looking sports watch, but the rose gold gives it a harmoniously warm effect, while the gold is also very restrained. The rose gold numerals on the ceramic bezel are also less contrasting than the white on the solid steel model, making them visually more elegant
The warm tones also give this modern GMT a surprisingly antique flavour, as in the case of the first GMT ref. 6542 pictured above, where the luminescence has deteriorated to a yellowish paste as the bezel has aged, although the physical differences between the two are strikingly similar
The hands and indexes of the dial are also made of the same rose gold as the case, and the rose gold-coloured “GMT – MASTER II” inscription matches the overall colour scheme.
The colour of the ceramic bezel is clearly defined, thanks to the relative ease of firing the black colour. A comparison between the blue of the batman and the pepsi shows that the blue of the former is better, while the latter has a red tinge to it and a blue tinge to the red, but this is an improvement on the earlier ones and I believe Rolex will slowly address this issue
The new small crown at six o’clock represents the 32 series movement on board.
The new 3285 calibre uses an improved escapement, which Rolex calls the Chronerg (above, left, traditional escapement, right, new escapement for the 3285 calibre): the size of the jewel jaws has been reduced, the shape of the jaws changed and the escapement wheel skeletonised to improve transmission efficiency. The addition of a thinner barrel metal allows for a power reserve of 70 hours in a single barrel. Although this standard is no longer industry-leading, with an error of just plus or minus 2 seconds, the 3285 calibre is definitely a top performer!
Slightly thinner on the sides than the Aquatimer and with slightly thinner legs
The blue Chormalight luminescence ensures that the time is read in low light. I have to admit that the DeTonnas struggle to read the time in the dark on international flights, which is what the GMT needs to ensure as a travel watch.
Finale
Unlike the yellow inter-gold sports models (the inter-gold Aquaman and the inter-gold Sea Messenger), the two-tone ceramic bezel plus rose gold, the mildly toned root beer is not overly attractive, while the same time gold gives it the weight of a precious metal in the hand and makes it a very satisfying watch to wear, making it one of the rare secondary market overpriced inter-gold models that is well worth considering in the fake Rolex GMT collection.